Coupeville, Washington State
Heritage, Rural Splendor and Pioneer Spirit thrive at Ebey's Landing
© Jan Lee
May 3, 2009
Nestled at the banks of Penn Cove, on Whidbey Island’s hilly east coast, Coupeville embodies the memory of 19th-century country-town life. Step into Coupeville and one is transformed back to a period when Victorian houses were plentiful, when farming was the heart of the economy, and when city streets transported horses and buggies, not compacts and SUVs.
In downtown Coupeville, with its rows of wooden shops, rustic wharf and motif-style eateries, one has the impression that the town has not changed for years. And in many ways it hasn’t. It still personifies the same refined image of early pioneer life as it did 20 years ago and likely, it will continue to do so for the next 20.
Ebey's Landing National Historic Reserve
Coupeville belongs to a designation of historic features known as Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve, a unique cluster of heritage buildings, land and artifacts overseen by the National Park Service. One of the few towns of its kind, it is a careful amalgamation of 19th-century charm and 21st century reality. This is a working fishing and agricultural town, and as the U.S. Park Service's Comprehensive Plan pointed out in 1980, isn’t meant to be a period piece frozen in time. But its designation as a National Historic Reserve does help to ensure that the buildings, the cultural ambiance and the very resources on which the town bases its survival will be here for future generations.
For the weekend sightseer, Coupeville is rich with historic artifacts. Many of the brilliantly painted Victorian houses that crown the town's street corners now serve as bistros, bed and breakfast inns and ethnic eateries. The Coupeville Warf (built 1905) houses as a popular restaurant and gift store. Once a stopping point for the “mosquito ferry” service that linked Coupeville with Seattle until 1937, it now serves as the embarking point for nearby whale-watching cruises. Coupeville’s other historic buildings range from a 1856 block house, to some of Whidbey Island’s earliest commercial buildings, all constructed before 1900.
Scenic Waysides and Interpretive Stops
Ebey’s Landing’s true historic value however, is the ability to capture and personify American pioneer life in one comprehensive rural snapshot. Visitors can take a tour of some of the Reserve’s working farms and structures, or enjoy a scenic trail that gives sweeping views of Whidbey Island’s carefully preserved agricultural belt. Self-guided tours provide detailed views of Coupeville’s 19th-century-style houses. Driving tours include scenic waysides and interpretive stops throughout Ebey Landing’s 17,400 acres.
Regional Activities and Attractions in Coupeville
Coupeville’s ornate inns and well-managed motels give an up-close view of the town’s charm and history, and are close to some of the area’s best seafood restaurants. For casual dining, Toby’s Tavern is a local favorite for fresh-caught seafood and local micro beers. Coupeville’s other restaurants, located on Front Street and further uptown offer picturesque vistas of the town and cove.
Other regional activities and attractions in and around Coupeville include:
- The Penn Cove Water Festival, featuring Native Dances and traditional foods;
- A seasonal farmer's market;
- Miles of walking and cycling paths throughout the Reserve;
- Camping, beachcombing and nature photography.
Getting to Coupeville from Washington’s mainland is part of the enjoyment of a weekend visit. Travelers can either enter Whidbey Island from the north via Anacortes and the spectacular Deception Pass Bridge, or from the southeast by taking the Mukilteo/Clinton ferry and following Highway 20 north to Coupeville. The Deception Pass route offers its own birds-eye view of early Washington history, as well as breathtaking views of Whidbey Island’s choicest scenery.
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